Tools
You will need:

• A dapping block. The dapping block curves metal circle blanks into domes and comes in both wood and metal versions. The metal block has more sizes and gives the blanks a more pronounced curve. The wooden block has indentations that are shallower. It is also more economical.
• Brass head hammer or plastic mallet
• Salon boards or fine files
• 1.25mm hole punch pliers
• Solder setup

Materials (C head)

• One sample tile
• One ½” circle blank of 24 gauge copper or sterling silver
• One ¾” circle blank of 24 gauge copper or sterling silver
• Medium and easy paste solder

Steps
Shape The Domes
Shaping a flat circle into a dome is known as “dapping”. You will want to do this to both your circle blanks.

• Choose a well in the dapping block by placing the blank in one of the indentations and checking that it can move freely in the well. 
• Choose a punch that fits into the well but also has a bit of room to move. Metal dapping blocks generally come with punches that match the holes exactly, so I tend to use the punch that is the next size down.
• Lightly tap the punch using a brass head hammer to gently curve the blank. Avoid hitting the edges of the blank with the punch so they will not distort.
• Rotate the shaft of the punch around, tapping as you go to gently coax the metal to dome in all directions.  Remember that you are work hardening it, so if it isn’t cooperating, you may need to anneal your blank!
• Continue to dome the blank gradually by moving the blank to smaller indentation and using smaller daps until the curve is to your liking.
• Lightly file the edges of your domes if needed

If you are using the wooden dapping block as opposed to the metal one, you should use a plastic mallet, rather than the brass head hammer to hit the daps, as the heavier hammer may damage the wooden tool.  If your blank becomes stuck while dapping, simply drop the entire block on your work surface from a small height and the blank should pop out again.
End side bar

Solder the smaller dome edge down
Place the smaller dome on the tile with the edge down so it looks like a bump. You will want to place it off center so you are sure to have room for the second one. Check that the fit is flush all around the edge with no gaps between the dome and the tile. Trace the dome with your marker and set it aside. Drill or punch a small hole in the tile in the middle of the circle. This hole is needed to vent the heat when the dome is soldered. If it’s not vented, the heat will build up and may pop your dome off the solder.

Apply medium paste solder to the rim of the dome and place it back on the tile. Solder as always, heating the entire piece gradually and then focusing more around the dome until the solder flows and the dome settles. Quench and pickle your piece as usual.

If Penny Brite or pickle gets in the hole into the interior of the dome, drop the entire tile in boiling water for about 2-3 minutes. The pickle residue from inside the piece will boil away. Use a small pot that you reserve just for this purpose.

Solder the larger dome edge up
Apply a 3mm size bit of easy paste solder to the outside curve of the second dome and place on the tile with the edge up so it resembles a cup.  Solder as before. Quench, and pickle as always.

Trouble shooting/Points to remember

• When dapping, make sure to choose an indentation that allows your circle to slide around freely to start.  Use a slightly smaller punch.
• Work the punch around the circle as you tap, being careful not to distort the edges.
• Move your circle to a smaller indentation and continue dapping with a smaller punch to increase the curvature of your dome.
• If you are using a wooden dapping block, you should use a plastic mallet to strike the daps. If your dome gets stuck, simply drop the entire block on your work surface to pop it out.
• Remember to punch a hole when soldering a dome edge down.  Remove Penny Brite or pickle from the interior by boiling in water for 2-3 minutes.

For more information about Kate Richbourg visit: katerichbourg.blogspot.com