- Swarvoski® smoky topaz crystal, bi-cone, 8mm – F14-1354CY
- Swarvoski® tanzanite crystal, round, 6mm – F14-1582CY
- Swarvoski® olivine AB crystal, round, 6mm – F14-1594CY
- Swarvoski® smoke topaz crystal, round, 6mm – F14-1576CY
- Swarvoski® erinite crystal, round, 6mm – F14-2838CY
- Swarvoski® glass pearl gold, 6mm – F14-1018GP
- Swarvoski® glass pearl bronze, 6mm – F14-1019GP
- Swarvoski® glass pearl green, 6mm – F14-1020GP
- Swarvoski® glass pearl bronze, 8mm – F14-1033GP
- Swarvoski® glass pearl green, 8mm – F14-1034GP
- Swarvoski® glass pearl gold, 8mm – F14-1032GP
- Swarvoski® crystal purple AB, 8mm - 3 packs – F14-1305CY
- Swarvoski® crystal smoky topaz, 8mm - 3 packs – F14-1353CY
- Cha-Cha expandable bracelet – F14-6000JW
- Headpins with ball - 3 packages of 100 – F14-4464FD
- Hill-tribe silver 15mm flower shape – F14-6482MB
- Hill-tribe silver flower on leaf – F14-6486MB
- Sterling silver jump rings, 6mm – F14-2015FD
- Round-nose pliers
- 2 pair chain-nose pliers
Designing your bracelet:
Pour a combination of beads onto your work surface; keep adding and subtracting
beads of different colors until you have a combination that is pleasing
to your eye, just like a painter’s pallet.
Your work station:
Stretch your bracelet base over a small display pillow (or similar item);
this will keep both your hands free while you work. Place the display
pillow in a vertical position in a little bowl or anything circular that
will support it so that you can work on your bracelet without the pillow
wiggling around.
Tips:
If you are right handed start adding beads to the bracelet from the left
loop going to the right. If you are left handed, add beads from the right
to the left. This will keep you from having to climb over the beads you
just added as you add the next row. Also, it is most comfortable to add
the beads going up the bracelet for the same reason; the beads you just
added will lie down, keeping them out of your way.
Adding the beads:
1. Place a bead onto a headpin. Using round-nose pliers, make a hook at
the end of the headpin and pass the hook through the left loop on the
bracelet, working from the bottom of the loop to the top.
2. Using chain-nose pliers, hold the end of the wire and complete the
loop. Continue to turn the loop, forming a second loop right next to the
first, similar to a split ring or a key-chain ring. As you are forming
the second loop make sure both loops are close together and going into
the loop on the bracelet for a second time, this will give you peace of
mind that you have a secure loop and the beads won’t fall off.
3. Keep attaching headpins with beads along the entire bracelet, filling
in the places where the metal still shows through, and doubling up on
the loops if you want a really full look.
It is good to attach a lot of the 8mm beads on the outside of the bracelet
as they will do a better job of hiding the metal edge than the 6mm beads.
The silver Hill-tribe pieces are optional and when added will turn your
cha-cha bracelet into a cha-cha charm bracelet.
4. Place a pair of chain- or flat-nose plier on each side of a jump ring.
Open the jump ring by moving one plier away from you and holding the other
one steady.
5. Bring the jump ring through the hole or loop on the Hill-tribe silver
piece and through a loop on the bracelet; close the jump ring. When closing,
slightly press the sides of the ring in toward each other to give tension
at the joint when the ring is closed.
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